Monday, 18 May 2020

19 May 2020 - the test run

One of the major worries I have for the trip is the distances required to be travelled each day if I am going to achieve the objective of doing the trip in 14 days.  Actually, it is THE worry that I have.  Everything else is of considerably less importance, even the reliability issue.  Covering more than 1,000 km per day, for 14 days...

In order to gather fresh data to help me decide how this might go, I decided to make a test run through the southwest of Western Australia on Monday 18 May.  This day was chosen due to the relaxation of the coronavirus restrictions for travel through parts of WA, with the southwest being opened up on the 18th.

I came up with a route that allowed me to do the 1,000 km.  Now it was a matter of seeing how long it was going to take for me to do it, what issues I might have, along with gather some up-to-date mileage (or kilometreage?) data.

The route I chose was, firstly, down to Albany, then across to Denmark and Walpole, then up to Bunbury through Manijimup and Bridgetown, and returning home from there.  Allegedly 958.7 km, with an estimated time of 12 hrs 10 minutes.  Could I do it?


Of course I could.  Just a matter of how long it would actually take!

I planned to leave at 6 AM.  Of course when the alarm went off at 5.30 AM I was fast asleep, despite having expected to wake before the alarm.  Underneath the covers was nice and warm, while the arm I stuck out to test the temperature found it to be a bit cold.  Maybe I could just go back to sleep and head off tomorrow instead...

After closing my eyes for 5 seconds and seriously contemplating the idea, fortitude arrived and I got up, showered and breakfasted.  I woke up properly about half way through breakfast.

Given the cold, I threw on an extra jumper - an old hoodie - really by chance.  Once I got outside, I was pleased I did.  The hood fits nicely under the helmet and keeps my remaining hair nice and warm.  All suited up, I went to switch the GPS on, only to find that I'd not installed it onto the bike last night, and it was still in the house.  Cursing, I had to find the keys (which of course had hidden themselves in the bottom of a pocket underneath everything else) go back inside, find where I'd left it, install it on the bike, find the power cable, fit it to the unit, get everything back on until, FINALLY, I was ready to go.

The bike fired up at the first touch of the starter and I rolled away from the from gate at 6.31 AM.  Only half an hour behind schedule.  Good start...

Despite the early hour, there was plenty of traffic and I seemed to catch just about every traffic light on the way to Armadale, where I'd swing off the suburban roads and on to the real beginning of the Albany Highway (from Victoria Park to Armadale, it's only the signs that indicate it is a highway).

At about this time, as the sun began to make its mark on the day, I was beginning to think that it was a bit foolish of me not to have taken into account the early morning temperatures, which although expected to be relatively low, were in fact rather cold.  The temperature gauge showed 6-7 degrees C and it certainly felt like it.  My head was warm, my torso was fairly good, feet were OK, but hands, arms and legs were cold.

As I headed south and the sun rose higher above the horizon, the situation did not improve very much at all.  Occasionally the temperature showed as 8 degrees, then 9 degrees, then back to 8, depending on the topography, shadow.  I also realised that I had forgotten to buy a Camelback - a water pack worn as a backpack, with a long hose to drink from - so I was thirsty.  A headache increased slowly but surely, a combination of thirst and (probably) eye strain from my stupid multi-focal glasses - a rant for another day.

I eventually stopped after two hours for a drink and to change over to sunglasses.  Drink was achieved successfully, however at the first instant, one of the lenses fell out of the sunglasses.  Fortunately they were an old pair, so no major problem, other than I didn't have any others to change over to.  There's a lesson right there for the longer trip!

I pressed on to my first refueling stop at Kojonup.  After paying for the fuel, I tried to enter the data into my preferred app for tracking fuel useage (www.fuelly.com).  My hands and body were shaking so much - shivering - that it was really difficult and I realised I was quite cold, despite my head being warm and thinking that my torso was fine too.  Obviously the cold blood from my limbs was having an effect on the rest of me.  I made a mental note to bring more clothing next time!

Shortly after I left Kojonup, I ran into the first major bug for the day.  It was a big, juicy one, presumably a bee, that hit my visor squarely between my eyes.  The smear was a considerable inconvenience, but not terrible enough to stop and clean it off.  Fortunately a short distance further, it commenced raining.  My earlier mental note now had waterproof pants added to it as the rain increased in intensity.  Fortunately the bug had not dried completely so the rain, combined with a 110 km/h wind, washed the spatter off and visibility was good again.  The rain also stopped after a few minutes and the sun came out.  The riding position on the Stelvio is quite protected, so as it turned out, those exposed legs didn't get wet at all.

On to Albany with only one additional brief rain shower and no further problems.  I found my turn-off to Denmark and Walpole and headed off in that direction.  I then managed to miss the turn to follow Highway 1, but shortly afterwards lucked on to a scenic route that parallels it for about 30km or so before joining back on to it.

Temperatures had risen to about 15 degrees on the coast, so I was feeling relatively warm, but the southerly wind had increased significantly in intensity, so I was buffeted quite strongly.  Throughout it all though, the Guzzi behaved very well - certainly no worse than other bikes I've owned in a cross-wind.

I decided that I'd make it to Walpole to refuel and this turned out to be correct distance-wise, but unfortunately discovered that they only have 91 RON unleaded fuel and not the minimum standard 95 RON (let alone 98 RON) available.  Bit of a nuisance, but nothing for it - in it went.  I also had a pit stop for a bathroom break and a bit of lunch.  A nice, hot, warming chai and a pie and sausage roll from a bakery.  All were quite good, although the tea was certainly the highlight.  The shaking appeared to have gone by this stage!

Rolling on to the north through Manjimup, Bridgetown, etc. through to Bunbury was relatively uneventful, apart from the magnificent stands of massive trees in the forest along the way.  I passed the Valley of the Giants tree-top walk and reminded myself never to bother going there again.  My other discovery was the 40 km/h speed limits through some of the towns, which made this segment quite a slow one.

I eventually got to Bunbury and needing fuel, started heading north out of town.  Not remembering how far it is to the next service, I paid a relatively exorbitant price at the Shell on the north side of town.  I then measured the distance to the next service (Puma Energy), which is a bit less than 30 km to the north and much cheaper, especially with the RAC discount.  Next time I will remember!

The road back to Perth and home flowed quite smoothly as one would expect.  I arrived home at 5.30 PM, after exactly 11 hours and 946 km completed.  The last part of the trip through Perth traffic was exceedingly slow and the seemingly interminable traffic lights made it feel like I was crawling.

Fuel consumption for the day averaged about 17.5 km/L, so with a tank capacity of 18 L, that should give me a range of 315 km.  Tolerable.

Lessons for the day;

  • Must have a camelback to drink from during the day
  • Must have waterproof / windproof pants
  • Must respect low temperatures One more jumper might not be necessary all of the time, but when you need it, it will be appreciated.
The human on the bike certainly had a sore bum at various stages, but a bit of fidgeting sorted that out.  Most surprisingly my shoulders were quite sore at various times.  My back held up well.

I take from all this that yes, I can do the required 1,000 km in a day reasonably comfortably.  The Perth traffic on departure and arrival certainly slowed me down across the day, so in more isolate parts, I should be easily able to get an additional 50-100 km in.  I also stopped at 5.30 PM, so in reality, I could have ridden for another hour or so as well.  The only uncertainty now is whether I can do this for 14 continuous days.  I imagine that after a few days, I will be accustomed to it and it won't present any great problems.

Time will tell.

Monday, 11 May 2020

19 May 2020 - the bike

The choice of the bike to take for the hot lap was not as simple as it might seem - go to garage, get on bike, head off into the wilderness.  I am fortunate enough to have a choice of two that are completely suitable for the trip.  In the end, as I have indicated earlier, I've chosen to go with the Guzzi.  A 2010 model Stelvio 1200 4V.  And the reason is very simple - it has a very wide seat that is pretty comfortable and I'm of the opinion that I'll need that on the trip!  The KTM seat is narrower and while it has proved comfortable on previous long trips, I think the Guzzi has a slight edge.

The Guzzi also has slightly better fuel consumption despite its larger engine displacement, which won't hurt.  Mechanically, I'm more worried about the Guzzi failing in some remote location, but to date it hasn't given me any problems that weren't readily resolvable.  Let's keep fingers crossed that remains the case!

The Guzzi has sufficient space for the swag to be stowed on the rear passenger seat, plus the spacious top box should be fine for emergency tools, first aid kit, a bit of water and food, and some spare gear (waterproof pants etc.).  Then I'll have a bag for clothes on top of the swag.  Simples.  I'm not going to bother carrying spare fuel, despite some temptation, as there are plenty of fuel options at appropriate distances (< 300 km apart) along my preferred route.




Sunday, 10 May 2020

11 May 2020 - the Route

Now that I've set the scene for what I'm planning to do, the next thing to decide is the route.  As I mentioned earlier, there's a defined route for "record" laps around Australia.  While there's absolutely no chance of me being able to set the fastest lap ever, I figure that if I can at least follow the official route as best as possible, my dodgy claim to the fastest lap on a Moto Guzzi might have some chance of being recognised by others and not just me.  Of course, that is if I choose to push my claim in any way that is within the public domain, which is by no means a certainty.

First thing required is the decision as to whether I'm going to do it in clockwise or anti-clockwise direction.  Naturally there are definitely pro's and cons for either direction, however popular opinion is the anti-clockwise is the best direction, largely due to the benefit of the prevailing winds being a tail wind while crossing the Nullarbor Plain.  As I understand the situation, it is by no means a certainty of strong headwinds travelling west across the Nullarbor, but having spoken to people who have done it on a bike, when there are headwinds, it is very hard work!

Starting in Perth, there is a distinct advantage to the clockwise direction, in that by the time I get to vicinity of Sydney or Melbourne, the bike will be due for a 10,000 km service.  Additionally, should I need repairs or new tyre/s or anything of that sort, then availability of Moto Guzzi specialist knowledge in those population centers will be much higher than it would if I were to go anti-clockwise.  In that case, I'd be due for a service somewhere around Darwin.  Not that I have anything against Darwin (other than it being bloody hot), but there aren't any official service centers for Guzzi's there, plus there would be an age to wait if I needed any specialized parts while in that part of the trip.  Of course I could have a service done in Brisbane before heading off to the north if I went counter-clockwise...  But then if the bike is to break down, then I fantasize that it is going to be in the first half of the trip...  There are too many things that I feel I should consider that will sway me to decide one particular way or the other, so in all likelihood, I'll probably just toss a coin.

And then go clockwise.

Despite the concern about the headwinds, the argument for being able to get the bike serviced in Sydney or Melbourne has me fairly convinced about clockwise.  I'd also prefer to deal with the heat of the top end while I'm fresher.  I'll also have a chance for a small rest, perhaps half a day on about day 10, when I'll be passing through Portland, where my parents live.  They have only recently moved there and it is more than 20 years since I passed through that part of the world, so a visit would be nice, however brief it might be.

As I mentioned earlier, I'll be aiming to follow Highway 1 for as much of the trip as possible.  A map  of it is shown following (hopefully without incurring the wrath of any lawyers acting on behalf of WickedWalkabout.com, who as an aside, have quite a good website!).


The only variation I'm currently planning on making is to avoid the first half of the east-west part between Darwin and Cairns due to it being largely dirt and seemingly unachievable distances (for me) between fuel stops.  Additionally, it appears to be across Aboriginal lands and due to the permit requirements for traveling through them interacting with the current coronavirus situation, it might be that travel is still restricted.  At this stage, it seems prudent to avoid those areas.  The bonus of the slightly southerly route is that I get to pass through Mt. Isa, which I've always wanted to visit.  Once I get to Cloncurry, I'll then swing north to Normanton (passing through the Burke & Wills Roadhouse!) and back onto Highway 1.

Sounds easy enough!

10 May 2020 - The end of the beginning?

Riding around Australia seems like a good idea - at this stage.  My plan is to do it in 2 weeks, which if I work it out, means I have to average just over 1,000 km per day.  Nice round numbers and no big deal.  Until I think about the last time I traveled 1,000 km in a day on the bike.  Which would be never.

Actually it is possible I did it once, when I rode from Santiago to the Iguazu Falls (4,500 km) and back in six days.  I have a memory of one very long day on the way back which may have cracked the 1,000.  But those were not overly punishing days, involved long and leisurely lunches and no great pressure.  And it was only a week.  And it still hurt (at times), despite the marvelous scenery.  And it still didn't average close to 1,000 km per day.  That trip did have the disadvantage of being stopped half a dozen times a day at road blocks for a chat and a check of my documents, which didn't help the average.

This will be different though, with Australia's famous wide open spaces and good quality roads, so I'm (currently) feeling confident.  There will be lots of new and interesting scenery to behold, as I've never been along the east coast north of Bega!  The only question will be whether I can maintain the pace.

Perhaps another obvious question is why it needs to be done in 2 weeks?  It's mostly because I work FIFO at the moment and have two weeks of rostered time off after my field stint, during which I don't have a huge amount to do.  I usually catch up with my kids for a bit, but they've got their own lives to lead and if I didn't insist, I'm not sure if they'd notice if I caught up with them or not!  There would also be some friends I'd miss out on seeing, but again, if I skipped a break there's every chance they wouldn't notice.  It is possible that at some stage my roster will revert to it's 'normal' 12 / 9 cycle, and nine days is certainly not going to be enough for the lap.  I therefore need to make the most of my time.

If I'm honest, it will also be an interesting thing to do as a celebration of the coronavirus lockdowns coming to an end - a celebratory ride around Australia to enjoy some liberty after being metaphorically locked up for the last few months, although to continue this honesty theme, the whole thing hasn't affected me very much.  Life has been pretty much normal, other than catching up with a few friends.

Perhaps the last question I should answer is what's so special, if anything, about setting a lap record of Australia on a Moto Guzzi?  Well, there are a couple of reasons, but I'm afraid that all of them are really quite simple.  Firstly, of the two motorbikes I'm fortunate enough to own, the Guzzi has the most comfortable seat.  It's a bit like a tractor seat and while it certainly could be softer, it's still pretty comfortable.  The alternative is my KTM and although I've done some long distance riding on it, and although it has a better luggage-carrying set-up, this trip is going to be a fairly frugal one and I don't expect to have many needs.  It will be me, my swag, a few spare cloths, some emergency provisions and that's about it.

The second reason for taking the Guzzi is that, as far as I can see, nobody has ever written about doing the lap on one.  Perhaps that should be a warning sign to me as, to be fair, Italian motorcycles have not traditionally been a byword for reliability.  It may be that plenty of people have done it, but no-one has thought to publicize it in any way.  Be that as it may, I'm going to claim the national record, and others can challenge me for it.  Hopefully at the very least, I can prompt a fun conversation about the whole thing, and see where it goes.  Even if nobody cares, I'll have had fun.  And let's face it, if some WA wheatbelt farmer can declare his farm is an independent province and call himself a prince AND get away with it, inventing a new record category for a lap of Australia is rather harmless in comparison.

It should also be fun, highly memorable, and will be easier to do know than in 10 years time when my knees and back will hurt more...

Saturday, 9 May 2020

9 May 2020 - In the beginning...

Hello reader!  Hopefully it's actually "readers" (plural), but I don't have particularly high hopes.  As per my South American travel blog (http://andrew-in-south-america.blogspot.com/), this is really just for me - a place to document any travel adventures I may have from time to time.  Perhaps my kids and other family members might also find it useful as a place to follow what I'm doing?  Anyone else who stumbles across it might also find some elements of it interesting or maybe even useful at some point.

My plans for travel in Australia are, as per just about everyone else in the country and probably most of the world, on hold due to current situation with the COVID-19 pandemic.  The positive side of the travel restrictions is the opportunity to plan what I'm going to do in a bit more detail which, given the scope of Adventure # 1, is probably prudent if I'm ever going to pull it off.

What is Adventure # 1 you rightly ask?

I'd like to say that it's going to be a mighty and epic adventure, sure to be full of derring-do and bravery, not to mention sex, drugs, rock 'n' roll and bucket loads of cash.  I suppose it could be some of those things, but given the way the world usually works, it's highly unlikely to be all of them.  Shame really.  Might be actually interesting to read about if it was!  What I'm actually going to do is try to set a record for the fastest lap around Australia on a Moto Guzzi motorcycle.

Now, while that's all fabulous and exciting to think that I could set a record for this, it is worth noting right here at the outset that there's no chance of setting a record for the fastest ever lap around Australia on a motorcycle.  This is currently held by the pair of Rich Willey and Gary Van Straten and was set in 1987, when the crazy guys managed to complete the lap in the absolutely astonishing time of 6 days, 17 hours and 6 minutes on a pair of 1,000 cc Kawasakis, seemingly with very little sleep and presumably with a bunch of speeding tickets!  Previous records are recorded here (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_records_for_fastest_motorcycle_ride_around_Australia).  Given the circumstances of the ride, it is unlikely to ever be broken.  Stories of this and earlier records are readily found by a quick search of the internet, so I won't bother with more links.

The lap distance is approximately 15,000 km.  I say approximately because there are obviously variations in the route you can take, however there's apparently an official one for record attempts!  I intend to mostly stick to this route, but really I'm planning to do as much of it by Highway 1 as I can.  There is a bit of a problem with Highway 1 up in the Gulf Country of Queensland and the Northern Territory, where the road is dirt and with long and uncertain distances between fuel stops.  While I'm sure it is do-able, I'd like to have found a map showing distances and fuel locations, but sadly the relevant tourism authorities for that area see fit to NOT publicize something of this sort on their websites.  I'll also be travelling unsupported, so I don't want to put myself into the middle of absolutely nowhere on roads less traveled in the event something goes a bit awry and I need to flag someone down.  I'll therefore have to make do with what I've been able to glean from other sources and in the end, probably just wing it.

More to follow...